Florida Shooters Network

I am wondering of anyone has any experience with the shell not ejecting properly. My AR 15, a DPMS upper and Spikes lower fires but the shell doesn't completely eject. If I pull back the charger handle the bolt has a grip on the shell and it ejects that way. I used factory PMC ammo. I've shot it some but nothing crazy. A few hundred rounds. The shell does not stick in the camber.

I talked to a gunsmith and he said there were 10 things that could cause such a problem and that he'd have to take it and test fire it. That seems reasonable. I can see it could run up a couple of hours labor at least plus parts.

Any ideas of what could cause the problem ?

AR parts aren't that expensive. A total upper can be as little as $350-. I'm not sure I want to spend a couple of hundred $ on labor.

It used to cycle this ammo reliably in the past? BCG and bolt slide well and are unobstructed? Proper spring and buffer?

It used to cycle this ammo reliably in the past? YES

BCG and bolt slide well and are unobstructed? YES

Proper spring and buffer? I think so. Haven't changed it. I did remove the stock and buffer spring to put on a sling swivel. Buffer slides in and out smoothly.

I traded a poly tech ak several years ago to a guy from Ft Lauderdale was that you by any chance ? Wakko sounds familiar.

That was probably me, I did trade a Polytech years ago...still have it.

Some things to check: Verify that the key is tight to the BCG (key is the top piece held in with two allen screws). Verify gas rings are sealing and that the gaps are not lined up together on the bolt. You should be able to hold the BCG up by the bolt (in the compressed position) without it sliding out. The gas tube may be obstructed, but that's usually the product of junk ammo or a significant amount of rounds...I've never had that happen to me. Verify that the gas block isn't cracked or moved, though that's also a very rare occurrance.

Thanks I will check those things out.

To add to Wakko's response I'd suggest that you clean the rifle and use a chamber brush and scrub the chamber well and then oil the gun leaving the chamber dry. Load one bullet in mag, insert it into gun and fire that one shot. Did the bolt carrier group stay forward in the locked position or did it travel back and then return to the closed position or did it travel back and lock open? What did the shell casing do, stay in the chamber or did try to dribble out? Take pictures and post if able.

If you do not have a chamber brush then go spend the $5 and buy one. Basically you are looking for potential gas leak which usually occur at the gas block or the key. If you have access to an air compressor that can do 100lbs of air, you can test the seal of the key by attaching a small diameter rubber hose to the key, spray the base of the with CLP or wd/40, hold the bolt in and then pressurize it with air and see if bubbles form around the base of the key.

Rathbone wrote: ↑Sun Feb 27, 2022 10:31 am
I talked to a gunsmith and he said there were 10 things that could cause such a problem and that he'd have to take it and test fire it. That seems reasonable. I can see it could run up a couple of hours labor at least plus parts.
.....................I'm not sure I want to spend a couple of hundred $ on labor.

looks like you rationally answered your own question as to the cost, so if you don't get it figured out and do have to cough up some $$$ or at least realize how much time you spent on time + test ammo, versus time that someone ( gunsmith ) would have to charge you.....

AR cycling problems are not easy to diagnose, not always gas related, which is the first place to look, don't forget about mags, buffer, crud in the upper, hell, Ive found stuff hanging off the Fwd assist prawl before

Ever figure this out?

UTG handguards too lang still working on it

I took my AR to a gunsmaith, Gun Stock and Barrel in Inverness. It turns out that when I put on a new handguard the gas tube got screwed up and out of alignment. It is fixed and I'm good to go. Highly recommend them.