S&W revolver "jamming" - ideas?

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flcracker
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S&W revolver "jamming" - ideas?

Post by flcracker » Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:07 am

Posting this question for a friend of mine:
SWMBO's dad gave me a S&W .38 5 shot snub nose, I think it is a Chief Special model 36. I was rapid firing (double action) and the cylinder kept jamming. Jamming I mean the cylinder seemed to catch between rotation.

When i depress the cylinder release (backwards- "not forward" to release cylinder) everything is operational. I tore it down to the trigger mechanism, cleaned and replaced, still has that pause during rapid-fire.

Any suggestions? Know of any good gun smiths near LeRoy, WV (anywhere in northwest West Virginia or southeast Ohio)?
and some rin up hill and down dale, knapping the chucky stanes to pieces wi' hammers, like sae mony road-makers run daft - they say it is to see how the warld was made!

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Re: S&W revolver "jamming" - ideas?

Post by rug357 » Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:52 am

flcracker wrote:
When i depress the cylinder release (backwards- "not forward" to release cylinder) everything is operational.
I don't understand this part of the statement... on S&W revolvers the cyliner release must be pushed towards the front (towards the barrel) to release the cylinder.
First thing would be to check the extractor rod to make sure it is not bent and that it is screwed in tight.
Bent extractor rod can bind the cylinder on certain one or two chambers and unscrewed extractor rod can bind the cylinder.
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Re: S&W revolver "jamming" - ideas?

Post by flcracker » Tue Jun 07, 2011 11:01 am

rug357 wrote:
flcracker wrote:
When i depress the cylinder release (backwards- "not forward" to release cylinder) everything is operational.
I don't understand this part of the statement... on S&W revolvers the cyliner release must be pushed towards the front (towards the barrel) to release the cylinder.
I think what he's saying is that the problem does not occur if he pushes the cylinder release backwards in the opposite direction of how it's pushed to release the cylinder. I believe that he was checking to see if possibly the cylinder release was part of the problem - that possibly it isn't returning as far back as it should under spring pressure.

I'll pass along the idea about the extractor rod - thanks!
and some rin up hill and down dale, knapping the chucky stanes to pieces wi' hammers, like sae mony road-makers run daft - they say it is to see how the warld was made!

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Re: S&W revolver "jamming" - ideas?

Post by BlackJack » Tue Jun 07, 2011 11:03 am

I would send it to S&W. They have repaired revolvers for me at no cost and even paid to ship them back to me. They definitely have the expertise and all the parts needed to make a quick correct repair.

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Re: S&W revolver "jamming" - ideas?

Post by Dr. Dickie » Tue Jun 07, 2011 12:12 pm

Just remember, left hand threads on the extractor (at least on the older models).
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Re: S&W revolver "jamming" - ideas?

Post by Polk County Hillbilly » Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:08 pm

Might be the ammo,Recoil and light crimp=jam-up
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Re: S&W revolver "jamming" - ideas?

Post by louiethelump » Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:23 pm

The left hand threads are on the NEWER models. The old ones had regular right hand threads. Anything post WWII will be left threads. IF there is a knob larger than the diameter of the extractor rod, on the end of the extractor rod, it is PROBABLY right thread. If the extractor rod is the same diameter to the end and the end is just knurled, it will be left thread.

Ref the problem: IF pulling the cylinder latch to the rear corrects the problem, it is probably the locking bolt inside the frame. IT has a step on it to prevent the hammer from being cocked with the cylinder out. There is a small spring and plunger that pushes the cylinder latch forward, and the spring in the extractor rod that powers the center pin is supposed to push it back out of the way when the cylinder is closed, by pushing the center pin to the rear. There could be a gummed up locking bolt, or the spring in the extractor rod may be rusted, gummed up with WD40, or broken and the center pin is not coming all the way back. This can also be caused by a bent yoke from slamming the cylinder shut like they do on TV. When the yoke bends, it binds the center pin in the hole in the recoil shield and does not allow it to push the bolt back far enough to clear the hammer.

If the gun was here, I would fix it for you, but WV is too far................

Louie

PS: BE SURE TO PUT AT LEAST TWO EMPTY CASES INTO THE CHARGE HOLES IN THE CYLINDER BEFORE YOU TRY TO TIGHTEN OR LOOSEN THE EXTRACTOR ROD!!!! YOU WILL SHEAR THE PINS LINING UP THE EXTRACTOR AND DAMAGE THE GROOVE IN THE EXTRACTOR BEYOND REPAIR IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS AND IT IS TIGHT.
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Re: S&W revolver "jamming" - ideas?

Post by flcracker » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:03 pm

thanks for the excellent suggestions - I've forwarded all to him.

Will keep you posted on what he discovers once it's fixed.
and some rin up hill and down dale, knapping the chucky stanes to pieces wi' hammers, like sae mony road-makers run daft - they say it is to see how the warld was made!

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Re: S&W revolver "jamming" - ideas?

Post by Dr. Dickie » Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:59 am

louiethelump wrote:The left hand threads are on the NEWER models. The old ones had regular right hand threads. Anything post WWII will be left threads. IF there is a knob larger than the diameter of the extractor rod, on the end of the extractor rod, it is PROBABLY right thread. If the extractor rod is the same diameter to the end and the end is just knurled, it will be left thread.
Well there is old, the then there is OLD. [smilie=pdt_xtremez_13.gif]
When I said older models had left hand threads, I meant 50-70s (as that is when all the S&W revolvers I own were made)--I did not know if the current ones (80s forward) still used left hand threads as I don't own any. Should have thought that with S&W revolvers, late 1800s is old [smilie=011.gif]
My personal time frame is: 80s were just a couple of years ago; 50 were quite a while back (anything before that is antique! /:f ).
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Re: S&W revolver "jamming" - ideas?

Post by john in jax » Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:21 am

How's the gap between the face of the cylinder and bbl look/measure?
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Re: S&W revolver "jamming" - ideas?

Post by flcracker » Thu Jun 09, 2011 10:53 am

His reply this morning:
That spring in the frame is the proable cause. I broke the gun down to the trigger and trigger spring, but couldn't get past one screw which held the plate to that spring without stripping the screw.

I shipped it off to S&W and they'll fix it, if the price isn't too high.

Thanks for the input.
Thanks, guys!! :ber
and some rin up hill and down dale, knapping the chucky stanes to pieces wi' hammers, like sae mony road-makers run daft - they say it is to see how the warld was made!

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Re: S&W revolver "jamming" - ideas?

Post by Gunnut42 » Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:25 pm

Just to clarify things the change to the Model system occured in 1957 and at that time the ejectors were all right hand threaded.

The first change was the dash 1 change where the 19 became the 19-1 , the 27 became the 27-1 etc etc.and that was the change to left hand (backwards) threading on the ejector rod.
All subsequent models have the left hand threaded ejector rod.

While I have seen some J frames marked without a dash that were post 57 guns its a safe bet unless it serials to pre 57 its left hand threaded.

They also cut a small groove in the area just behind the knurled tip to identify LH from a RH thread ejector rods.
Hope this helps.
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