Any Mechanics Who Have Worked on CRV's? AC Question

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photohause
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Any Mechanics Who Have Worked on CRV's? AC Question

Post by photohause » Tue Aug 07, 2018 5:37 pm

Good day-did a search and did not find this.

AC is working fine but seems to be stuck on the front direction...no feet or combo with feet, nor MAX condition.
I don't think duct tape, WD40 or blow torch are the answers. Yes I do have thief insurance but, not that drastic of a problem.

Any ideas?
Thanks in advance
What new gun my dear, this old thing?

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jr81452
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Post by jr81452 » Tue Aug 07, 2018 6:43 pm

You don't say year/trim, so can't help with your specific issue. Based on the problem I would look at the A/C & Heater Control dash module first, if it checks out, check the blend door actuator at the blower.
That which doesn't kill me,
Better run like hell.

“Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well- warmed, and well-fed.” - Herman Melville

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rentprop1
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Post by rentprop1 » Tue Aug 07, 2018 6:54 pm

muy blend doors are bad, one way to check is do you head a whistle sound when the window is cracked and the air is set to recirc ??

its not an problem except when you need the heat, it all comes out the dash, we went to WV last Dec and my feet were numb for about 3 hours on the trip back home :mrgreen:

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NorincoKid
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Post by NorincoKid » Wed Aug 08, 2018 6:19 am

FWIW my piece of shit CRV has a (Actuator?) little module for that, I think. It could be wiring/fuse maybe? Mines an old 1st gen, ripped apart for a timing belt job I don't have the tools to finish :lol:

When you try to switch vent locations via the dash, do you hear anything "trying" to change at all?

Is it switching from heat/cold? I think mine has a little "arm" and it switches in the engine bay so thats seperate from the stuff under the dash.

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photohause
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Post by photohause » Wed Aug 08, 2018 9:03 am

Picky, picky...ok, it's BLUE!
2010. It IS blowing cold air... just can't change the settings.
Not hearing any funny noises.

Will try the heat setting...good idea.
What new gun my dear, this old thing?

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gforester
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Post by gforester » Wed Aug 08, 2018 9:56 am

It is definitely a mode door issue. Must be electrically controlled. Older models had vacuum motors to move the mode door, but if they fail they default to defrost. Might be the mode door motor has failed. In any case if it is the motor it will require going under the dash to repair. Might also be the control module if it is an electronic control.

DISCLAIMER: I am no Toyota expert by any means, but I did sleep and a Holiday Inn Express once.

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photohause
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Post by photohause » Wed Aug 08, 2018 10:40 am

^^^Thank you. Seems logical.
What new gun my dear, this old thing?

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jr81452
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Post by jr81452 » Thu Aug 09, 2018 12:03 pm

gforester wrote:
Wed Aug 08, 2018 9:56 am
DISCLAIMER: I am no Toyota expert by any means, but I did sleep and a Holiday Inn Express once.
But are you a Honda expert? :lol:

The 2010 dash control is fully electronic, and the blend door still fails to defrost (meaning when it fails, you only get defrost mode). If the AC is still blowing cold out of the dash vents, check the A/C & Heater Control dash module first. It is the easiest component to remove/check. You should be able to get a pin-out from the Honda forums and ohm it out. Or, if you don't feel like fucking about with you multimeter for an hour, you can just get a known good part for cheap and swap it in https://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-2011-Hond ... m570.l1313
That which doesn't kill me,
Better run like hell.

“Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well- warmed, and well-fed.” - Herman Melville

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photohause
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Post by photohause » Thu Aug 09, 2018 12:57 pm

Thanks-btw, what's a pin-out?

so this = 2010-2011 Honda CRV A/C Heater Temperature Control OEM LKQ. is a possible culprit.
What new gun my dear, this old thing?

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gforester
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Post by gforester » Thu Aug 09, 2018 1:15 pm

photohause wrote:
Thu Aug 09, 2018 12:57 pm
Thanks-btw, what's a pin-out?
Using a high impedance DVOM to back probe the pin terminals on the module. There should be specs available that provide proper resistance and voltage values. Even that is not always conclusive. When checking control modules or units Honda service manuals often say to "substitute a known good unit" to verify your findings. That is a fun proposition for the DIYer because if it doesn't fix the problem there is no return allowed on electrical components and new ones can often be quite expensive.

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